Schools are back and the Wall is quiet. Walk it while the light lasts.
The second week of September is often a kind one, but the Whin Sill crags that carry Hadrian's Wall are high and open, and the wind up there can be a lot stronger than it feels in Hexham. Mornings are starting to feel autumnal, with mist in the Tyne valley that often lifts by late morning, and sunset is coming nearly three minutes earlier each day. On the coast a sea fret can hang around all day while it's sunny inland. Take a warm layer and a waterproof whatever it looks like at breakfast, and check the Met Office forecast before you set off.
Sunset 7.45pm in Alnwick on Wednesday. Full forecast (Met Office)
Archive edition. We wrote this one for the website to cover the week of Sunday 6 September 2026, so it lists what was on then and says nothing about the weather that week. The emails proper started on Tuesday 29 September 2026.
Northumberland's schools went back last week, so the car parks along the Wall and the coast are much easier on a weekday now. Here's the week, checked with the organisers, with one proper walk on the best-preserved stretch of the Wall.
About 3.3 miles (5.3km) one way to Housesteads. Shorter option: out past Sycamore Gap to the crags above Crag Lough and back, turning round whenever you've had enough
About 2 hours one way to Housesteads, longer with stops; Sycamore Gap is about 15 minutes from the car park
Start: Steel Rigg car park, Once Brewed (grid ref NY 751 677; nearest postcode NE47 7AN, The Sill)
This is the stretch of the Wall that goes on the postcards, riding the top of the crags with long views north, and midweek in September it's about as quiet as it gets. Sycamore Gap is 15 minutes in: the tree was felled in 2023, but the stump is sprouting new shoots, and the biggest piece of the old trunk is on show at The Sill down the road. At the far end, Housesteads Roman Fort is open daily from 10am to 5pm (last entry 4.30pm), with toilets and a coffee cart at the car park and the fort. The 122 bus runs daily and stops at Housesteads, The Sill and Steel Rigg, so you can walk one way and ride back (adult day ticket £6, and a bus ticket gets you 20% off Housesteads admission). It only runs every couple of hours, so check the timetable before you set off.
This is a proper up-and-down walk on stone-pitched paths, with steep steps and short rocky sections, the steepest right at the start just east of Steel Rigg, plus at least one stile. It isn't step-free and it's hard on knees coming down. Steel Rigg has only 32 spaces (first 15 minutes free, £5 up to 3 hours, £10 all day, cash, card or app); for a longer day park at The Sill instead (£6 all day), which is also where the café and toilets are.
Mon 7 Sep; castle 10am to 5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Hermitage 11am to 4pm
Warkworth Castle, Warkworth Normal admission; English Heritage members free, All ages
The Hermitage, a medieval chapel carved into the riverbank upstream of the castle, only opens on Sundays and Mondays, so Monday is the weekday chance. Six people go every half hour and places can only be booked on the day, so book at the castle as soon as you arrive. Details and booking
Mon 7 to Fri 11 Sep, daily sailings, weather permitting
Seahouses harbour, Seahouses £32 plus the National Trust landing fee, All ages
Billy Shiel's landing trips to Inner Farne run from April to September, so these are some of the last of the season. Allow two and a half to three hours, wear shoes with some grip for getting on and off the boat, and book ahead by phone or online. Details and booking
Mon 7 to Sat 12 Sep, 10am to 4pm (runs until Sat 19 Sep)
Queen's Hall Arts Centre, Hexham Free (donations welcome), All ages
A free exhibition in Galleries One and Two about Northumberland's night skies and what light pollution is doing to them. A good hour on a wet morning in Hexham, and it might talk you into booking a night at Kielder Observatory now the evenings are drawing in. Details and booking
Daily; first train from Heatherslaw 11am, last 3.30pm
Heatherslaw, near Ford and Etal Return £12.50 adults, £12 over 60s, All ages
Four miles there and back beside the River Till to Etal village, in small carriages that can take wheelchairs. Tickets are sold on the day only, at the Heatherslaw ticket office. Details and booking
The weekly market in the Market Place, with local produce, handmade goods and gifts. Carlisle Park by the Wansbeck is a short stroll away if you want a sit down afterwards. Details and booking
Thu 10 and Fri 11 Sep; entry 10am to 4pm, house 11am to 4pm, gardens until 5pm
Cragside, Rothbury Normal admission; National Trust members free, All ages
A midweek day after the schools go back is a calm time for the house. The grounds are steep in places, but wheelchairs are free to borrow (booking advised) and a free shuttle bus runs round the estate until October half term. The ground floor of the house is wheelchair accessible. Details and booking
Kielder Castle to Blakehopeburnhaugh (A68), Kielder £5 toll at Kielder Castle, card only, All ages
Twelve miles of unsealed forest road over Blakehope Nick, one of the highest roads in England at over 1,500 feet, at a 15mph limit. There's no phone signal and loose stone in places, so it isn't one for low-slung cars. Take a flask and a picnic. Details and booking
Berwick Barracks, The Parade, Berwick-upon-Tweed Free, booking essential, 12 and over
Heritage Open Days start on Friday, and this is one of the first: the site manager shows you the conservation work turning the barracks into museum and cultural space. Twelve places a tour, hard hats and hi-vis provided, sturdy shoes a must. Details and booking
The Pilot Inn, Low Greens, Berwick-upon-Tweed Free, booking essential, Grown-ups (not recommended for children)
Berwick Slow Food lead a Heritage Open Days walk through the town's grain trading history, with a keen interest in its pubs. Fifteen places, some steps and a main road to cross; book on Eventbrite or ring Berwick Record Office on 01289 301865. Details and booking
Outside Northumberland Hall, Market Place, Alnwick Free, booking essential, All ages; under 16s with an adult
Another Heritage Open Days walk capped at 15, with booking closing on 16 Sep. Alnwick's pavements are narrow and uneven in places, so wear good shoes, and tell the organiser in advance if you need a hand. Details and booking
Seaton Delaval Hall, Seaton Delaval £15, 13 and over
An illustrated talk on Vanbrugh's Queen's Theatre in the Haymarket, part of the hall's Vanbrugh 300 season, held in the house he designed. The Saloon is unheated, so bring a warm layer; book on 0344 249 1895. Details and booking
Book ahead
Evening
Tip. Heritage Open Days run from Friday 11 to Sunday 20 September, with free open buildings, walks and talks across the county. The popular Berwick and Alnwick walks take only 12 to 15 people, so book the ones you want early in the week.