Bairns & Beaches.
Weekday edition, Sunday 27 September 2026

Quiet week on the coast. Walk the walls while the light lasts.

The first days of October on the Northumberland coast tend to be cool and changeable, with bright spells between showers and a wind off the sea that feels colder than the number says. The sea is still around 13C after the summer, so a sea fret can hang over Berwick and the pier while it's clear a few miles inland. Evenings are drawing in fast now, and the clocks don't go back until Sun 25 Oct. On the pier, the ramparts and the Holy Island causeway, the wind and the tide matter more than the temperature, so check the Met Office forecast before you set off.

Sunset 6.45pm in Alnwick on Wednesday. Full forecast (Met Office)

Archive edition. We wrote this one for the website to cover the week of Sunday 27 September 2026, so it lists what was on then and says nothing about the weather that week. The emails proper started on Tuesday 29 September 2026.

A proper grown-ups' week: school's well back, the car parks are emptier, and there's a good spread of talks, films and theatre in village halls from Etal to Amble. Our walk goes round Berwick's walls and out to a lighthouse that turns 200 this year.

Walk of the week

Berwick's Elizabethan walls and the pier to the lighthouse

  • About 2.5 miles (4km) in all: the walls circuit is a mile and a quarter, and the pier is about half a mile each way
  • About 45 minutes for the walls on their own; allow 2 hours with the pier and a few stops
  • Start: Berwick-upon-Tweed railway station, Railway Street, Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 1NF

Berwick's ramparts were begun in 1558 and English Heritage calls them the most complete bastioned town defences in England. They're free, open daily, and have interpretation boards at the key points, so you can take it at your own pace on a quiet weekday: Meg's Mount, the Cumberland and Brass Bastions, then round to the river mouth. From the south east corner drop down to the pier, built by John Rennie between 1810 and 1825, and walk out to the lighthouse at the end, which Joseph Nelson built in 1826. The Berwick Harbour Commissioners still look after it, and Berwick's Heritage Open Days team made a short film inside it this September to mark 200 years. The station is right next to the castle ruins, so this works by train with no car at all, and Berwick Barracks has toilets and a shop selling drinks and snacks.

Sections of the ramparts have steep unguarded drops and uneven surfaces, and there are steps in places, though English Heritage says there's disabled access onto the ramparts. The pier has no handrail, so keep well back from the edge and give it a miss if the sea's up. If you drive, the town car parks are pay and display.

Route details (opens the official page)

Early in the week

Later in the week

Book now

Tip. Leave the car at home for the walk of the week. Berwick station sits right next to the castle ruins at the start of the ramparts, so you can step off the train and be on the walls in five minutes.

Where this came from

← Previous issue Next issue →